ROCK SPORTS:
Rock Climbing  |  Caving

AIR SPORTS:
Hang Gliding & Paragliding  |  Gliding & Microlighting  |  Ballooning & Parascending

WATER SPORTS:
Waterways  |  Canoeing & Kayaking  |  Sailing  |  Surfing  |  Fishing  |  Watersports Centres

ON FOOT:
Distance Walking  |  Festivals  |  Geocaching  |  Orienteering  |  Fell Running  |  Activity Centres  |  Safety Information

ON WHEELS:
Beginners Cycle Routes  |  Longer Cycling Adventures  |  Mountain Biking

HORSE RIDING:
Trails  |  Riding Centres

EASY ACCESS:
Routes & Experiences

Week 38 - Rock Sports

Level of Fitness
Red (advanced) - suitable for experienced rock climbers.  There is trad climbing which provides some mid-grade classics as well as some fearsome test pieces. The sport climbing begins at grade 5+ and keeps on-going upwards to 8 and beyond...

The routes aren't for the faint hearted, stamina is needed in abundance because most of the routes are up steep, overhanging, and bulging walls.

The Experience
The Yorkshire Dales, is a high limestone plateau, with the limestone cliffs of the 'big three' Malham Cove, Gordale Scar and Kilnsey Crag some of the most impressive in Britain. They provide some of the best hard sport climbing to be found any where in Europe. 

• Malham is one of the best limestone crags in the country with great mid-grade trad routes to top grade sport climbing - the setting is in a magnificent natural amphitheatre which faces south and dries quickly

• Gordale Scar an impressive gorge with towering cliffs, and a tumbling waterfall at its heart. Classic trad climbs such as 'face route' as well as harder sport climbs up some sustained overhanging walls

• Kilnsey the overhanging profile of this crag has to be seen to be believed. Routes start at 6c upwards, and are the best to be found anywhere at their grade.

There are now over 600 bolt protected routes in the Yorkshire Dales with over 200 being at grades below F7a.  However, the bulk of the climbing remains traditional in style, from Twisleton type favourites to long scary adventures at Gordale and Blue Scar.

The crag of Giggleswick South (near Settle) and Robin Proctor Scar (near Clapham) provide easier mid-grade sport climbing in the area. Gigglewsick is especially popular because it is quick drying and catches the sun though parking is very limited.

Have a go
September is a great time of year to get out on to the limestone crags and is a time when many people are at their fittest. The crags should be dry, as there is little water seepage at this time of year and most of the crags are in a southerly locations, catching any available sun and the overhangs mean they can miss the rain too!  In recent years many people have managed to get routes in during warm February days.

Please note that peregrines regularly nest at Malham Cove and other limestone crags in the area - bird restrictions may be in place restricting climbing on sections of some cliffs. Check out the situation before visiting  by using the BMC crag data base 

Find out more
You will need all of the usual equipment for climbing: boots, rope, harness, karabiners, extenders, friends and nuts (for trad routes). There are good climbing shops at Ingleton, Clapham and Skipton if you need to buy anything.

Or else hire a local instructor to introduce you to the sport.

If you want to begin climbing, your local climbing wall is a good place to start.

To find out more about sport climbing click here, and for information on climbing skills, click here. 

Further information about the crags in the area is available from the BMC website  and the Rockfax Guide