Ripon Cathedral

Address: Minster Road, HG4 1QS
Tel: 01765 603462
Opening: Daily, 8am-6.15pm.
Prices: Suggested donation £3.
More information

In 947 the Northumbrian leaders had submitted to the English King Eadred (one of the grandsons of Alfred the Great) at Tanshelf (modern-day Pontefract, where the remains of an Anglo-Saxon church can still be seen between the castle and All Saints church).

The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, however, tells us that they quickly abandoned both ‘allegiance and oaths', taking the Viking Erik Bloodaxe as their king. In 948, Eadred launched a punitive raid on Northumbria, which led to the burning of the great minster that had been founded by St Wilfrid in Ripon in the seventh century.

Built in stone by continental masons at a time when most buildings in England were of timber, it must have been a mighty and impressive sight; remarkably, the crypt of this church has survived and can still be visited today.

Castleford

Address: Barnsdale Road, Allerton Bywater, Castleford
Tel: 01977 628191
Email: fairburnings@rspb.org.uk
Prices: Entrance to the Fairburn Ings reserve is free, but parking costs £2 for non-members of the RSPB (the first 30 minutes are free). Parking is free for RSPB members and disabled badge holders.

In 948, having raided Northumbria and burned the minster at Ripon in the Yorkshire Dales, King Eadred's army was returning south, following the route of the old Roman road, which here crossed the treacherous flood plain of the Aire. Erik Bloodaxe's army issued suddenly out of York and caught the rearguard of Eadred's force at the river crossing, inflicting a ‘great slaughter'. No other details of the battle are known, but it must have taken place hereabouts. Eadred was outraged and threatened a renewed invasion of Northumbria.

At this the Northumbrians took fright and disowned Erik, who found himself increasingly isolated in the years that followed. His greatest fighting days long behind him, Bloodaxe died in 954 in the Stainmore Pass, possibly in a final flight from a hostile Northumbria.

The exact location of the battle is unknown, but the address and grid reference given here marks the point at which Barnsdale Road departs from the course of the old Roman road, not far from the old river crossing; it is accessible by public footpaths along the Aire to the west and a canal to the east.

There is on-road parking in Allerton Bywater. Further off is the RSPB reserve at Fairburn Ings, with a car park and toilet facilities. We recommend the use of an OS map to find the relevant locations. The area affords various pleasant riverside walks that allow the visitor to appreciate the marshy conditions hereabouts, which must have hampered the homeward progress of Eadred's army.

Fulford

Address: Fulford Playing Fields (opposite Fulford Cemetery), York, YO19 4QG
Opening: All year round.
Prices: Free.

In September 1066 the Norwegian king Harald Hardrada sailed up the Ouse towards York with an invasion force of 300 ships. Accompanying him was Tostig Godwinson, the exiled Earl of Northumbria and brother of the English king, Harold Godwinson. The armies of Hardrada and Tostig left their fleet at Riccall, 10 miles south of York, and advanced on the city.
On 20th September they were met a mile and a half south of its walls by Earls Edwin and Morcar, who had raised an army to counter the Viking threat. The location was Fulford, an area of open fields and marshland. The English army gathered on higher ground north of the Germany Beck to intercept the Viking force as it marched on the road towards York.

The battle itself is thought to have been short and fierce, with the English troops driven back from their positions, some fleeing towards the city, others outflanked and driven into the Ouse to drown. York surrendered, but no occupation followed; instead an agreement was reached whereby the Vikings would receive hostages and tribute at Stamford Bridge, retiring in the meantime to their camp at Riccall.

Clifford's Tower and Baile Hill, York

Address: Tower Street, York, YO1 9SA (Clifford's Tower) and Baile Hill Terrace, York, YO1 6HF (Baile Hill)
Tel: 01904 646940 (Clifford's Tower)
Opening: Clifford's Tower 1 Apr-30 Sep daily, 10am-6pm; 1-31 Oct daily, 10am-5pm; 1 Nov-31 Mar daily, 10am-4pm; closed 24-26 Dec and 1 Jan.
Baile Hill can be accessed via Baile Hill Terrace all year round. The city walls are open daily, 8am to dusk; closed if there is a risk of slippery conditions and Christmas day.
Prices: Clifford's Tower English Heritage members: Free, Adult: £3.50 Child: £1.80 Concession: £3.00 Family: £8.80. Baile Hill free.

These sites are the locations of two motte and bailey castles built by William the Conqueror in 1068-9 to establish control in the north of England. In September 1069, Swein of Denmark sent a fleet up the Humber, and the Northumbrians rose in revolt against their Norman overlords. Attempting to hinder the advance on the castle, the Normans set fire to the houses in the city, but the flames grew out of control. The garrison was overwhelmed, the castles captured and dismantled. William returned north to re-establish his control, and to buy off the invading Danes. The subsequent ‘harrying of the North' ended Northumbrian resistance. By the early 13th century, the castle at Baile Hill fell out of use and the land was transferred to the archbishop.

The stone keep, known as Clifford's Tower, was built between 1245 and 1272 to update the defences from wooden structures to stone. As the need for an important fortress in the north diminished, Clifford's Tower was allowed to slip into decay. During the Civil War, the whole castle was garrisoned by Royalists troops, so the tower needed to be completely repaired. Clifford's Tower suffered damage during the siege of York in 1644.
Clifford's Tower has 55 entrance steps, uneven surfaces and hazardous walkways.

St Andrew's Church, Middleton

Address: Middleton, YO18 8PA
Opening: All year round
Prices: Free

One of the finest surviving examples of monumental Anglo-Scandinavian artwork in England is the cross found at Middleton. Tenth-century Danish lords adopted the local tradition of erecting stone sculpture incorporating Christian iconography in order to demonstrate their power.

At a time of constant conflict between Saxons and Vikings, some of the sculptures emphasised the military power of the Danish lord. The Middleton Cross shows a warrior wearing a helmet, and knife (or sword) on his belt. He is surrounded by his spear, sword, axe and shield. It was once thought this depicted a Viking lying is grave, but the cross is now interpreted to show a local lord sitting on his thrown. The circular shapes above his shoulders are the knots on the back of his throne. His weapons are other symbols of his status; his military superiority is very much part of his power.