Rovellotti Ronco al Maso Vespolina 2020, Colline Novaresi DOC, Italy

Dusky-deep garnet in colour, this Vespolina has an impressively complex, expressive nose of savoury, earthy, chestnutty, mature notes and subtle, mellowed fruit.  The palate is deep-flavoured, with lithe balancing acidity and satisfyingly supple yet chewy tannin.  This remarkable, quintessentially northern Piedmontese red could almost be a far more expensive Barolo, having benefited from several years' careful cellaring.  The Vespolina variety is closely-related to the noble Nebbiolo, and produces similar-tasting wines.  Usefully, however, they do not require the same degree of ageing before they are ready to drink.