Au Bon Climat 'Lala Panzi' Pinot Noir 2022/23, Russian River

Since it was founded in 1982 by Jim Clendenen, Au Bon Climat has had one ambition: to produce Burgundian-style wines with class and nuance. It’s not a straightforward task in the heart of sun-soaked California, but by employing traditional techniques such whole-cluster pressing and ageing in French oak barrels for 20 months, the label’s wines are famously layered and well-structured. They have great sense of place, too – as shown in this bottling from the Lala Panzi vineyard, which is organically farmed and manually tilled. Expect aromatic and sophisticated red berry character and a hint of spice. Try it with duck, grilled mushrooms or pork.