Paul Jaboulet Aîné Viognier 2023/24, France

Caroline Frey earned her stripes in the cellars of top Champagne crus and Bordeaux châteaux, but taking over such an established label as Jaboulet was still no mean feat. Known for sublime reds, and £40-a-bottle Condrieu, Jaboulet is nothing less than a cult Rhône wine label. And this Viognier is a real steal. It's pure indulgence. A Condrieu doppelgänger at a fraction of the price. It's aromatic. It's peachy. But it's also seriously fresh. Every part of the winemaking, from picking the very best grapes, to fermenting the juice in aroma-preserving stainless steel, has been designed to make this as opulent and fragrant a glassful as you could wish for. It's a curry's dream partner, but also delicious alone.