Walks in Stackhouse, North Yorkshire
From easy city strolls to challenging trails, discover the best of Stackhouse, North Yorkshire on foot.
Walk: Settle, Scaleber Force and Jubilee Cave
Settle, the waterfall of Scaleber Force, geological wonders and prehistoric Jubilee Cave. The Route what3words for start point: ///comply.solving.sublet Start / Finish Point: Market Pl, Settle BD24 9EJ Distance: 6.5 Miles GPX Route Map settle-warrendale-knott-and-victoria-caveDownload Walk Description From the lovely old market town of Settle in Ribblesdale, this walk heads to the dramatic waterfall of Scaleber Force, set in a wooded ravine. Here the waters of Scaleber Beck cascade down over limestone ledges formed by the South Craven Fault. The Craven Fault Lines define the southern geological boundary of the Yorkshire Dales, where the underlying rocks were displaced many hundreds or metres during the Carboniferous period over 300 million years ago. From Scaleber Force, our walk heads northwards to soon reach Warrendale Knotts, a dramatic cliff of shattered limestone crags and hills along the Mid Craven Fault, which is also responsible for Malham Cove and Gordale Scar. As you approach Warrendale Knotts you pass Sugar Loaf Hill, which is a Reef Knoll that was formed along the edge of these fault lines as coral reefs in a shallow tropical sea when this whole area was near the equator. A rocky path now heads northwards, with a detour up to the right to reach the incredible Victoria Cave. Deposits within this cave chart the climate and human history of the Yorkshire Dales, as animal bones from hippos, short-nosed rhino, elephants and hyenas have been discovered in thick glacial clay deposits. These animals lived in this area 130,000 years ago during a warm interglacial period. Above these deposits, a 11,000 year old harpoon tip made from reindeer bone was discovered dating back 11,000 years ago from when the first human hunter-gatherers arrived after the end of the last ice age during the Palaeolithic period. Similar discoveries have been found in nearby Jubilee Cave.
Walk: Settle (The Golden Lion)
An interesting ramble taking in the historic town of Settle and the surrounding countryside into Giggleswick - all starting and finishing at The Golden Lion hotel. The Route What3words start point: ///touched.gamer.slanting Start Point: The Golden Lion, Duke St, Settle BD24 9DU Finish Point: The Golden Lion, Duke St, Settle BD24 9DU Distance: 8 Miles GPX Route Map walkshiresettlewalkforthegoldenlion-2Download Walk Description From The Golden Lion hotel, turn left down Duke Street, then turn right down Station Road. After crossing underneath the railway, turn right down Bond Lane and then left at the T-junction on to Kirkgate. On the bend to the right, turn left down Kings Mill Lane and follow this to the end. Turn right, and ignore two junctions to the left but then turn left at the yard gates to cross the River Ribble over the Giggleswick Memorial Bridge. Turn right and follow the made path until it meets the B6480. Cross over and turn right, then turn left immediately down the public footpath. Follow this path along the side of the playing field and turn left when you reach the side of the river. This is now part of the Ribble Way and the Dales High Way. Follow the path as it turns left away from the river, and then almost straight away turns right through a field. Follow this clear path, over the boundaries of two fields, to eventually reach a road through a small wooden gate. Turn right and then go through the gate immediately on the left. Turn right and follow the line of the road for a while, and then follow the boundary of the field as it veers to the left. Continue through the trees and turn left at the next junction of paths to walk between the two solo trees. Head towards the stile in the boundary wall and then once in the next field head for the gate almost straight ahead. In this field, follow the clear path on the ground as it zigzags upwards and make your way to the stile in the boundary ahead of you. Then, in the next field, the path pretty much follows the line of the right hand boundary - albeit a little way away from it. The path then crosses over the right hand boundary, turns left and then over another straight away. In the next field, head straight across to the gate in the far boundary, following the clear path on the ground. Then, follow the boundary wall on your left, until it ends, and then keep on that same line to another gate. Follow the clear path on the ground until you see another clear path turning left and heading towards the boundary wall on your left. Turn left to follow this path to reach the boundary wall on your right. At the wall in front of you, take the stile and follow the boundary on your right all the way until it ends. You’ve turned right slightly by this point, and now roughly follow this line, guided by the path on the ground, to reach the far boundary. Veer right, diagonally across the field, keeping to the left of the building on the right, and head to the next stile. In the next field, look around half way down the boundary on the left side for the stile to aim for. Now, veer diagonally to the right and head for the boundary wall on the right. When you’ve reached this, turn left and follow it until a wall stops your track. Look for the stile in the wall to your left, and take this. The path is clear on the ground in the next few fields, so don’t leave this path and keep the wood on your right hand side. Eventually, you’ll start to drop down slightly, and look for a path on the ground to the left - this is to avoid the quarry that is straight ahead. Go to the boundary wall and turn right - but follow the path which turns off to the right to follow the top of the quarry, not the boundary wall. Enter the wood and follow the path down to the B6480. Turn right, cross over the road, and turn left down the road signed “Giggleswick School”. Follow this road all the way down until you see a public footpath sign pointing right for Craven Bank Lane. Take this path, which cuts across the green to reach a footbridge, then follow the boundary on your right and follow it around to the left. Go through the hedgerow to reach Craven Bank Lane, and turn left, following the road until you cross over a stream. Turn right here, but go straight into the field, not over the little footbridge to the right. Follow the clear path to exit the first field to the right of the line of trees. Arrive back at The Golden Lion.
Walk: Settle
This simple and easy walk takes you around the exquisite town of Settle and close to the beautiful River Ribble. The Route what3words for start point: ///townhouse.hatch.cowboy Start / Finish Point: Ashfield Car Park, 8 Kirkgate, Settle BD24 9DZ Distance: 2 Miles GPX Route Map drawaroute-1-1Download Walk Description This simple and easy walk takes you around the exquisite town of Settle. It starts in the town centre taking you over to the west side of the town. Once you've crossed the river the path will take you right going past Queens Rock. Once this path ends turn left on the road and continue done until you hit a fork in the road. At this fork take the left hand road and it will take you to a junction. At this junction go left and follow the road until you get to the rugby field where the path will take you to the bridge you crossed at the start. Once you're at the bridge you just need to follow the path you took at the start to where you parked. All paths are accessible to everyone including scooters.
Walk: Helwith Bridge to Pen-y-ghent Circular
The Helwith Bridge to Pen-y-ghent Circular Walk is a popular and rewarding route in the Yorkshire Dales, offering walkers a mix of stunning scenery, challenging terrain, and the opportunity to summit one of the famous Three Peaks. Starting in the tranquil hamlet of Helwith Bridge, this walk takes you through picturesque countryside, across rolling fields, and up the slopes of Pen-y-ghent, one of Yorkshire's most iconic peaks. This circular walk is ideal for those looking to experience the natural beauty of the Dales while also enjoying a good physical challenge. Route What3Words: ///tangent.slides.newer Distance: 10 miles Start location: Austwick Rd, Helwith Bridge, Settle BD24 0EH Finish Location: Austwick Rd, Helwith Bridge, Settle BD24 0EH OS Walking Map & GPX Download Our OS map below shows the full route. Under the map, you can find a GPX file download for your navigational device. helwith-bridge-pen-y-ghent-circularDownload Walk Description Begin your walk at the picturesque hamlet of Helwith Bridge, located beside the River Ribble. The historic Helwith Bridge Inn makes for a convenient and welcoming starting point. Cross the B6479 to get on the path signposted Moor Head which leads towards Pen-y-ghent. You should be able to see the peak in the distance on a clear day. Keep left and continue on Long Lane. There is another fork on the track, join the Pennine Way, and keep Pen-y-ghent in sight. The path on Pen-y-ghent is rocky and steep in places, but it's well-trodden and easy to follow. The final section of the climb involves a bit of scrambling, but it's manageable for most walkers and adds a sense of adventure to the hike. Summit of Pen-y-ghent Reaching the summit of Pen-y-ghent, you'll be rewarded with panoramic views stretching across the Yorkshire Dales. On a clear day, you can see as far as the Lake District to the west and the Pennines to the east. The summit is marked by a trig point, where many walkers stop to take photos and enjoy a well-deserved rest. Descent Follow the Pennine Way down and stop at the cave of Hull Pot if you wish. This part of the walk requires careful footing, especially in wet conditions. Horton-in-Ribblesdale Then follow the Pennine Way to Horton-in-Ribblesdale. Cross through the main carpark for Horton village and the public toilets. Take the footbridge over the River Ribble and then follow the river almost all the way back to Helwith Bridge. Helwith Bridge The Helwith Bridge Inn provides a perfect place to relax after your walk, with hearty food and refreshing drinks to help you unwind. This circular walk, covering approximately 10 miles, is a full-day adventure that showcases the very best of the Yorkshire Dales. Whether you're drawn by the challenge of Pen-y-ghent or the serenity of the river paths, this route is sure to leave you with lasting memories of one of England's most beautiful landscapes.
Walk: Settle Loop
The Settle Loop Walk is a scenic and invigorating circular route located in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales. This 10-mile trail, which starts and ends in the charming market town of Settle, offers walkers a delightful mix of landscapes. The walk is well-signposted and provides a moderately challenging experience. The Route what3words for start point: ///grumbling.flushed.basher Start Point: Settle BD24 9HA Distance: 10 miles GPX Route Map Settle-LoopDownload Walk Description The Settle Loop Walk begins in the picturesque market town of Settle, nestled in the Yorkshire Dales. From the town center, the route heads north, following signs for the Pennine Bridleway. Settle to Langcliffe The walk starts by crossing the River Ribble, moving through charming countryside towards the village of Langcliffe. The trail ascends gently, offering views of the surrounding hills and valleys. Langcliffe to Attermire Scar Continuing from Langcliffe, the path winds upwards towards Attermire Scar, a striking limestone escarpment. This section of the walk is known for its dramatic cliffs and caves, providing a stunning backdrop as you traverse the open moorland. Attermire Scar to Jubilee Cave The route then passes by Jubilee Cave, a popular spot for exploring and enjoying panoramic views. This cave is a fascinating feature of the landscape. Jubilee Cave to Victoria Cave From Jubilee Cave, the trail continues to Victoria Cave, another notable landmark. Discovered in the 19th century, this cave contains prehistoric artifacts. Victoria Cave to Warrendale Knotts The path then climbs to the top of Warrendale Knotts, offering some of the most breath-taking views of the Yorkshire Dales. This elevated point provides a perfect spot for a rest. Warrendale Knotts to Scalebar Force Descending from the heights, the walk proceeds towards Scalebar Force, a picturesque waterfall hidden within a wooded gorge. Scalebar Force to High Hill Lane The route then meanders through rolling farmland and along quiet country lanes, eventually reaching High Hill Lane. High Hill Lane to Settle Finally, the loop curves back towards Settle, descending gently and providing a pleasant end to the walk. The town provides plenty of options for a well-earned meal, accommodation or a train-ride home.
Walk: Golden Lion & Sugar Loaf Hill
An interesting ramble taking in the historic town of Settle and the surrounding countryside - all starting and finishing at The Golden Lion hotel. The Route what3words for start point: ///funny.highlight.clattered Start / Finish Point: The Golden Lion, Duke St, Settle BD24 9DU Distance: 6 Miles GPX Route Map walkshiresettlewalkforthegoldenlion-1Download Walk Description From The Golden Lion hotel, turn left down Duke Street, then left again down Chapel Street. Carry on and veer to the right up Victoria Street, then veer left up School Hill. At the junction, turn left (signposted Kirkby, Malham). Keep walking up this road, Albert Hill, until another junction of roads. Take the right fork here, following the sign for the Pennine Bridleway, along Mitchell Lane. Follow this lane right to its end, leaving the town of Settle far behind. At the split in the lane, take the left fork and follow the dual walled track called Lambert Lane. This is also part of the Pennine Bridleway. A track leaves to the right, but continue to the left and follow this track all the way to reach High Hill Lane. Turn right here, then the next obvious left, to be on Stockdale Lane - another dual walled track. The track bends to the left, then as it turns right, take the public footpath into the field on the left, then turn right and follow the clear path on the ground over Sugar Loaf Hill. Head to the boundary corner on the right, and follow this boundary for a short while, before the clear path on the ground veers to the left. Cross the wall using the stile, and turn right, to find a gate in the far wall. Once through, turn left, following the track which moves away from the wall to follow the bottom of Attermire Scar on the right. Follow this path, past field boundaries on the left, and going past Victoria Cave, set high in the hill on the right. This path eventually turns left slightly to reach the Pennine Bridleway again. Turn left here, and follow the Pennine Bridleway all the way back into Settle. Veer left onto the lane called Highway, and then right onto Constitution Hill. At the Market Place, turn left, then left again, and then right along Cheapside. Turn left at the main road, and you at back at The Golden Lion.
Walk: Stainforth Force
This walk starts in the quiet town of Settle and takes you down to fascinating Stainforth Foss. The Route what3words for start point: ///accented.buns.operated Start / Finish Point: Ashfield Car Park, Kirkgate, Settle BD24 9DZ Distance: 1 Miles GPX Route Map drawaroute-10Download Walk Description Close to the village of Stainforth, just to the north of Settle, is the magnificent waterfall of Stainforth Force which is on the River Ribble. From the National Park car park follow the Pennine Bridleway signs under the road, through a picnic area, and over the railway. After crossing over the narrow and ancient packhorse bridge, take the footpath through the fields and you will be treated to one of the National Park's most popular beauty spots.
Walk: Pennine Bridleway National Trail
From the Peak District to the Yorkshire Dales, follow old drover’s roads, ancient packhorse routes and bridleways on a journey through the stunning and varied landscapes of the Pennines. The Route what3words for start point: ///woof.perch.saves Start Point: Middleton Top, Derbyshire Finish Point: Ravenstonedale, Cumbria Distance: 205 Miles GPX Route Map penninebridlewayelev20200819Download Walk Description The Pennine Bridleway is the only National Trail specifically designed to be used by walkers, horse riders and cyclists. The 205 mile route stretches from Middleton Top in the Peak District to Ravenstonedale in the Yorkshire Dales and traverses a variety of landscapes, from open moorland to steep-sided wooded river valleys, along ancient packhorse routes, drovers’ roads and bridleways. The Yorkshire Dales section features spectacular limestone landscapes including great views of Malham Tarn and the Three Peaks of Pen-y-ghent, Ingleborough and Whernside, as well as the 10 mile circuit of the Settle Loop. Much of the trail is stile-free and sections of it are accessible for those using all-terrain wheelchairs. The trail calls at historic Yorkshire towns such as Hebden Bridge as well as tranquil villages, and you'll find a host of pubs, cafes, accommodation options and visitor attractions along the way. You can walk a section of the Pennine Bridleway as a day out, or if you're looking for a longer walk , enjoy it as a multi-day adventure.
Walk: Ribble Way
The Ribble Way is a scenic long-distance footpath that stretches from the Lancashire coast to the heart of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, closely following the River Ribble as it journeys from the Ribble Estuary to its source on Gayle Moor. The route offers a rich variety of landscapes, including tidal marshes, expansive moorland, and dramatic limestone gorges, providing walkers with a diverse and ever-changing backdrop. Route What3Words: ///:rainy.fruitcake.replenish Distance: 65 miles Start location: Just near the River Douglas, by The Dolphin Inn, Marsh Lane, Longton, Preston, Lancashire PR4 5JY Finish Location: Newby Head Pass, Hawes DL8 3LX OS Walking Map & GPX Download Our OS map below shows the full route. Under the map, you can find a GPX file download for your navigational device. ribble-way-routeDownload Walk Description Starting at Longton on the Lancashire coast, the path meanders through or near several key locations. It first reaches the historic city of Preston before continuing to the ancient Roman town of Ribchester, known for its archaeological significance and the remains of a Roman fort. From there, the path leads to Hurst Green and the picturesque grounds of Stonyhurst College, a Jesuit school with centuries of history. Continuing onward, the route passes through the quaint village of Great Mitton, with its medieval church, and the bustling market town of Clitheroe, dominated by its iconic Norman castle perched on a limestone knoll. As the trail progresses, it winds through the charming villages of Chatburn and Sawley, with its serene abbey ruins, and then enters Gisburn, known for its proximity to Gisburn Forest, a popular spot for walking and cycling. The Ribble Way then takes walkers through the peaceful hamlets of Paythorne and Halton West, eventually reaching the historic village of Wrigglesworth. From here, it meanders through Rathmell, a village nestled in the shadow of the Pennines, before arriving in the lively town of Settle, a gateway to the Yorkshire Dales. Settle is famed for its stunning limestone scenery and the Settle-Carlisle Railway. The route continues through the picturesque village of Stainforth, known for its ancient packhorse bridge, and crosses the River Ribble at Helwith Bridge, a popular spot for anglers. It then passes through Horton in Ribblesdale, a key stop for those undertaking the Three Peaks Challenge, before ascending towards Ingleborough and Whernside, two of the Yorkshire Dales’ highest and most iconic peaks. Finally, the Ribble Way traverses the remote and rugged Blea Moor, offering expansive views of the surrounding dales, before culminating at the river’s source near Cam Head on Gayle Moor, a desolate yet beautiful highland that marks the end of this remarkable journey through the diverse landscapes of Lancashire and Yorkshire.
Walk: A Pennine Journey
From Settle to Hadrian's Wall and back the walk showcases the wonderful variety of walking experiences available within northern England with its mountains, moorland and river valleys. The Route what3words for start point: ///watchdogs.gifts.trash Start Point: Settle station Finish Point: Settle station Distance: 247 Miles GPX Route Map pennine-journey-complete2Download Walk Description A Pennine Journey is a circular long-distance footpath in northern England originally devised and walked by the Yorkshire-born Lakeland fells guide book writer Alfred Wainwright in 1938. It is 247 miles (388 km) long, starts and ends at Settle in North Yorkshire and traverses some of the most delightful terrain that northern England has to offer. Of its 247 miles route over 220 miles lies within the Yorkshire Dales National Park, the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and Northumberland National Park. During the route it touches on sections of the Pennine Way and Hadrian’s Wall Path National Trails and crosses Alfred Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Walk at it’s half way point at Keld. Yorkshire highlights on its way north are Hull Pot, reputedly the largest hole in England, followed by stretches of Wharfedale and Swaledale before the route leaves Yorkshire soon after passing the 17C Tan Hill Inn – at 1732 feet the highest pub in England. On its return to Settle it enters the Yorkshire Dales at Garsdale, which has a station on the Settle-Carlisle Railway Line, passes close to the book town of Sedbergh before arriving back in limestone country at Ingleton after the ascent of one of the Three Peaks – Whernside. The final day from Ingleton sees the ascent of another of the Three Peaks, Ingleborough, before the journey ends back in Settle.
Wainwright's Yorkshire Masterpiece
Longer than the Coast to Coast, more varied than the Pennine Way – and circular. Nick Hallissey discovers the emotional story behind Wainwright’s Pennine Journey, then grab your boots and try it yourself. The name of Alfred Wainwright might be more synonymous with a landscape on the other side of the M6. But long before he became famous for his Lake District guides, he embarked on an epic circular walk through the Yorkshire Dales and the Pennines – a walk that uncovered some of the greatest landscapes in these Broad Acres. A walk that is only now being rediscovered and treasured. Photos: Tom Bailey The gathering storm The story begins in September 1938. The world was heading for war. Newspapers and radios blared with talk of Hitler; of rearmament, air-raid precautions and decontamination squads. As one man remarked: “You turned on the news and sat waiting, with an inside quaking and empty.” That man was Alfred Wainwright, a 31-year-old clerk to the borough treasury of Blackburn. Already a lover of the hills of Yorkshire, it was to these very hills that he looked for escape from the dreadful tidings on the radio. In the steps on the Romans After taking a train from Blackburn to Settle at the bottom edge of the Yorkshire Dales, he set off on foot with a plan to walk to Hadrian’s Wall, some 110 miles to the north. To get there, he would follow the eastern edge of the Pennines. To come back to Settle, he’d follow the western edge, thus creating a grand circular walk up and down the backbone of England. If that didn’t get Hitler out of his head, he had no idea what would. Halfway along the route, Neville Chamberlain came back from Munich declaring “peace in our time”, and like everyone else’s, the heart of Alfred Wainwright suddenly lifted. But by the time he got back to Settle, that peace had been torn up, and Britain was at war. Published walk Back home, Wainwright committed the whole thing to paper, writing a book titled A Pennine Journey. It was a meticulous account of a magnificent walk. It was the story of the people he met and the meals he ate. But it was also a superb documentary on the build-up to the Second World War and what it did to the hearts and minds of those living through it. There was only one problem. He didn’t want anyone to read it. The Lost Manuscript The book was written “not for others to see but to transport my thoughts to that blissful interlude of freedom”, said he. He showed it to a select group of work colleagues, but the war came and went, and the book lay in a drawer until 1986. By then, he had become A Wainwright, the guide-poet-artist of the Lake District. Also in the interim, the Pennine Way had been created, with Wainwright himself writing a guidebook to it. The Way shared fragments of the route of his old Pennine Journey – but only fragments. And it was linear, from Edale to Kirk Yetholm, rather than circular. And crucially, it wasn’t his own creation. So in 1986, when Wainwright and his publisher were discussing projects to help raise funds for his animal rescue charity, he remembered the Pennine Journey. It emerged from the drawer and at his insistence, was published word for word and unedited. Thus it’s an in-the-moment eyewitness account of Britain’s national psyche and the landscapes of the Pennines, frozen in 1938 and thawed out 48 years later. But at this point it’s still just a narrative. It was never intended to be a practical guide to walking the route. Modern update For that we have to skip forward 12 more years to 1998, and meet compulsive long-distance walkers David and Heather Pitt. Having walked almost every other mega-mile trail that Britain has to offer, the indomitable Pitts were looking for something new. Wainwright fans both, they decided to see if they could translate the Pennine Journey into something they could follow. It took a colossal effort of map-reading, cross-referencing and improvisation, but they not only managed it; they loved it. And in 2004 they convinced the newborn Wainwright Society to adopt the Pennine Journey as an official project, with a guidebook edited by David and Heather, and sections checked and updated by volunteers. Since then, the Pennine Journey has attracted a cadre of devoted fans, and waymarkers have appeared at key points along the trail. But last year – 25 years after the death of Alfred Wainwright – something has happened that is likely to make his first big walk go stratospheric. It’s just gone on the OS map. The journey today “I would never, ever call it my baby,” says David Pitt. “This is Wainwright’s journey; his story. That said, it has been part of our lives for 20 years or so, so I am very attached to it. Some people have called it an obsession, but I don’t think it is. I just love this route and I want others to see it too. Evangelism, maybe, but not obsession!” And it has been a team effort. David says the project would be nothing without the efforts of the volunteer route-checkers, and is full of praise for illustrators Ron Scholes and Colin Bywater, who provided the beautiful Wainwright-style maps and drawings for the guidebook. But the inclusion of the Pennine Journey on OS mapping is perhaps the biggest step forward in its history. It makes the route that much more obvious to anyone scouring a Pennine map for a good idea, and it gives the Journey equal weight against the far better known Pennine Way. David loves the Way, but he thinks the Journey has more to offer. “It goes to many places that the Pennine Way goes nowhere near: Buckden, Semerwater, Ingleborough, Weardale and Mallerstang, to name just a few,” he enthuses. “But it also includes a lot of the must-see highlights of the Way, so you don’t miss out – like Pen-y-ghent, High Force, Cross Fell and the very best bits of Hadrian’s Wall. “I also like the circular nature of it: the fact that you do this journey and it brings you back again, which of course the Way doesn’t.” The details The Journey is 247 miles long; 20 miles shorter than the Way. It breaks down into 18 sections, in line with Wainwright’s own walk, and most are between nine and 15 miles. The shortest (Day 1, Settle to Horton) is 7.5 miles, while the longest (Day 17, Sedbergh to Ingleton) is a whopping 17.5 miles. But there are options for downsizing some of the chunkier sections. For example, the 17.5-mile stretch from Buckden to Gunnerside can easily be broken at Bainbridge (in fact I urge you to try this, because Low Mill Guesthouse in Bainbridge is one of the loveliest places that I’ve ever stayed). Wainwright himself didn’t measure in miles but in valleys. Essentially each stretch of the Journey hops from one valley to another, taking in the likes of Ribblesdale, Wharfedale and Wensleydale; Swaledale, Weardale and Teesdale; the Eden Valley, Chapel-le-Dale and the Mallerstang Valley. And thanks to some slight tweaks by David and Heather, the route also climbs all of the Yorkshire Three Peaks. The Pennine Way only climbs one. GPX Route Map penninejourneyDownload Hadrian's Wall And up at the apex is Hadrian’s Wall – or at least, the sensational ten-mile stretch of the wall from Housesteads fort to the village of Greenhead, in which the wall lollops along the beetling crags of the Whin Sill. The wall was Wainwright’s primary objective; he’d never seen it before. There’s almost an irony there: he opens the book by comparing Hitler with Alexander the Great – remorseless empire-builders who sought to invade every corner of the worlds they knew. And yet his destination on this walk to forget all that was the very symbol of empire-building; a relic of another set of conquerors who wanted to possess and control everything they saw. But he was doing this before English Heritage (#ad) was there to protect the wall and tell its story. Before there was a Hadrian’s Wall National Trail. Before there were national parks, visitor centres or even walking guidebooks as we would know them today. In 1938, vast tracts of the countryside were still in private ownership and fenced off from public access. This all makes Wainwright’s endeavour even more remarkable: a man following his own path, using his wits, surviving on cartographical skill and occasional acts of charity; threading together corpse roads, green lanes and the trackways of forgotten industry. And yet despite all this mental agility, the Journey did its job. With every mile, come rain or shine, Alfred Wainwright’s mind found peace. Our own Pennine Journey I walked several stretches of the Pennine Journey with photographer Tom Bailey, using David’s newly-reprinted guidebook and relishing the lack of all the hardships mentioned above. We met up with David and longtime PJ helper Jill King and walked from Buckden in Wharfedale to Bainbridge in Wensleydale. It’s one of the loveliest days of the trail, and exemplary of its nature as an exercise in valley-hopping. From one splendid dale to another across high, wild moorland: that’s what this journey is all about. Along the way is the unexpected treasure of Raydale, the secretive offshoot of Wensleydale that’s home to the fine sheen of Semerwater and England’s shortest river, the Bain. So, brain off, eyes and ears open, enjoy. As an appetiser to the grand enterprise of the Pennine Journey, the day was delicious. The urge to free up two and a half weeks to do the whole damn thing is nagging at me as I type. It would be contrived to liken today’s era of global anxiety to the circumstances in which Wainwright undertook his Pennine Journey. But with every awful thing we hear about on our radios, it’s hard not to feel that going for a massive walk is a brilliant idea. On the other hand, you don’t have to be unhappy to go on this walk. And you don’t have to be alone either: David and Heather will vouch for that. The truth is, whatever your mental landscape when you set out from Settle, I’m pretty certain that by the time you return, the world will look and feel a lot better. It’s not about the destination, you see.It’s about the Journey. Nick Hallissey and Tom Bailey are the deputy editor and photographer forCountry Walking Magazine.